Unfortunately, unless you’re very lucky with your squash, you’ll need to bake it before use, to get rid of as much moisture as possible, yet without drying it out so much that you’re unable to blend the flesh into a puree. That said, if you, like one commenter on my Instagram, find squash too sugary for your taste, you may like to follow Trivelli in mixing it with roughly equal amounts of white potato, which gives his gnocchi a more subtle sweetness – still unmistakably there, but as a hint, rather than the dominant note. If you want to guarantee sweetness, you may wish to follow Anna Del Conte’s suggestion of mixing butternut or kabocha with the same amount of sweet potato as the closest thing “to the spicy sweetness and moist texture of a northern Italian pumpkin”. Sadly, few of those are available in your average British supermarket, but if that’s your only option, don’t despair – I make some very satisfactory gnocchi out of butternut squash following Steve Farrow’s recipe for The Wine Society (excellent wine pairing recommendations, too). Butternuts don’t tend to work as well.” Recommendations include the blue-skinned crown prince, the dark green Italian delica or Japanese kabocha, and the red onion, or kuri, squash. River Cafe chef Joe Trivelli writes that they’re best made with “a dry, sweet. For this recipe, you want as much flavour and as little water in your gnocchi as possible, which strongly suggests the use of a winter squash. According to Janet Macdonald’s authoritative guide, Pumpkins & Squashes, “pumpkins are the round jobs with delicate or bland-tasting flesh, almost always orange coloured and more or less spherical”, while winter squashes tend to be denser, with a “nutty and sometimes almost sweet taste”. Though it generally turns up on menus as pumpkin gnocchi, possibly due to the word “squash” conjuring up visions of bland and watery marrows, you would be well advised not to try this with an actual pumpkin, unless you’re very sure of the variety. Anna Del Conte’s sweet potato and pumpkin versions.
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